World Class Sushi – A phrase not to be tossed around like soy sauce packets

By Damian Kelly

Atop a hillside in Port Vila, an entire ocean away from Okinawa is VAN Japanese Restaurant. From the streetside, VAN Japanese is unassuming, hidden away down a side street, behind a black gate and white stucco walls. In fact, if you arrive on a Monday, that gate and white stucco walls will block you from entry, just like what happened to me the first time I attempted to gain access. Aminor disappointment before a subsequent reattempt.

If you arrive, on Tuesday through to Sunday, the black gate and white stucco are open and welcoming. The stucco moonlighting for red torii gates transporting you to a sacred space. You’ll be given access to VAN Japanese and the freshest and most varied seafood Port Vila has to offer.

Now it’s easy to get overwhelmed because there’s a patio overlooking the harbour, shipping containers in the distance to the left, Irriki Island and Resort in front, and to the right Port Vila city centre slowly falling asleep to the setting sun. Back that up with the absolute light show of sunset that exhibits shades of pink and orange, only available after tropical showers earlier in the day. Just the right amount of vapour in the atmosphere to diffuse the setting sun in all its glory. And, then the menu arrives… way too quickly mind you, not long enough to fully adjust to the display in the sky and water, above and below.

To say there is a menu is not accurate. There are many menus. For anyone that has frequented a Japanese restaurant will be familiar with the plethora of paper and other pieces of laminated cardboard or post-it notes that accompany the “standard faire” to document specials that have long remained regular fixtures.

Sake menu. Beer menu. Ramen menu. Don menu. Specials menu. Specials menu number 2. Japanese beer menu (to supplement the local beer menu). Banquet menu. Don’t forget the chalk board menu. Twist your head and more pieces of paper line the bar with specials, combo meals and high ball drinks. Sushi specials menu (this one I am sure is the actual specials inscribed on freshly printed on unlaminated paper). And of course, the regular menu. It’s all complicated work. But deciphering the paperwork is worth it. I promise.

Maybe the idea of supplying all the paper is so that you can make origami cranes along the way to dinner. It’s said that making 1,000 can grant a wish, have healing powers. But, that’s actually probably a distraction from the truly healing power of the evening breeze in Port Vila, partnered with a Tusker (obviously)!

After much thinking, I personally decided to ignore most of the menus, focusing on the regular menu and the sushi specials menu. A simple meal means you can really assess the quality of the sushi. I ordered:

• sashimi scallops;

• sashimi tuna;

• sashimi salmon;

• whelk nigiri; and

• eel aburi nigiri.

Fresh! Melt in your mouth. Subtle flavours. The sea breeze stronger upon the palette than the fish itself. Close your eyes and you might feel the same winds that brought dashi, pickled ginger and the art of sushi slicing from the port of Osaka all the way to Port Vila. World class sushi grounded in fresh produce and craft.